Ginger Jeans!!

Hi Guys! I am super duper excited to finally be able to write this post! I had two major sewing goals this year: to sew an Archer button up and to make jeans. I am thrilled that I can say I’ve achieved both goals! Both seemed like such big projects that they took sewing dares to make me actually start the process. And I was pleasantly surprised with how much I loved sewing both of  them. I can easily see how people get hooked on shirt making and jeans sewing. My sewing dare for the jeans was from Heather and I finished them the day before my deadline of the end of August.

I went with View A of the Ginger Jeans pattern. This is the low rise, stovepipe leg version. I bought this pattern ages ago when Kollabora had a 20% off sale. I have some of the Cone Mills denim from the Ginger Jeans kits that Heather sold earlier in the year, but I didn’t want to use that for my very first attempt at jeans. This denim is from Girl Charlee and I bought it at the beginning of the year. I don’t think they have this exact denim right now, but they do have some other options that look good. I made a size 14 graded out to a 16 at the hips. The only change I made to the pattern before cutting was to add 1/2″ to the center back of the yoke and taper it to nothing at the side seams. I like my jeans to be higher in the back and dip down in the front. I wasn’t sure if that’s how the pattern was drafted but I figured I could always remove the 1/2″ if I didn’t like it. I also ended up having to cut the waistband with a center back seam since my denim was a little bit too narrow for the whole thing to fit.

I cut everything on the single layer as Heather recommends in her Ginger Jeans sew along. Once I had everything cut out I basted the jeans together for a fit check. Remarkably, I was mostly happy with the fit. I had a bit of looseness/bagginess at the crotch, which is fairly common for me. I posted a picture on Instagram and many wonderful sewing people came out with their recommendations of how to fix the issue. I straightened the crotch curve a little bit, which mostly solved the problem. I also had gaping at the back yoke/waist. I ended up solving that by taking a 2″ wedge (1″ on each side of the center back seam) from the waistband and tapered it down to nothing just above the end of the crotch curve.

Once I got to doing my actual sewing I really started having fun. I started out using just my regular sewing machine, but after a while I dragged out my auxiliary machine to I wouldn’t have keep switching from regular thread to top stitching thread. I was able to go a lot faster once I did that. (I know not everyone has stolen their mom’s sewing machine and therefore has access to two machines– these jeans are totally doable with just one!)

I went all out and flat felled the yoke seam and the inner leg seams. I used some leftover Cookie Book fabric  for the pockets (because I wanted my jeans to match our bedding!) and decided to finish my non-flat felled seams with kelly green serger thread. I finished the outer leg seams separately (instead of serging both seam allowances together as one) which is how my ready to wear jeans are finished. I love the effect of the two rows of green stitching when the jeans are cuffed.

I am really pleased with the fit of these jeans. When I was working on my pocket placement I had my husband take a bunch of pictures of my backside. (Scrutinizing my bum was probably my least favorite part of this whole process!) I had him take pictures of my favorite Gap jeans and I was pretty horrified with the pocket placement on them. The pockets were set so wide that they make my generous backside look even wider than it already is. I don’t know that I’m ever going to look at my butt and say, “Wow!” But I think these jeans are a major improvement over the ones I’ve been wearing.

The only issue I had with sewing these was that because I had to cut the waistband in two pieces I had too much bulk in the center back to position the beltloop directly over the seam join. I wanted to cover it with a belt loop, but I could not get my machine to sew the bartack on the top of the loop. I decided to add a belt loop and put one on either side of the center back waistband seam. I was nervous about installing the button and the rivets, but it wasn’t too bad. The button did pop off these jeans right after my husband took these pictures, but I hammered it back on and I think it’s more secure now. I found the Ginger Jeans sew-along to be invaluable for sewing my first pair of jeans. I can’t imagine how much time Heather put into her detailed posts.

I haven’t really had a chance to wear these much since I made them because our temperatures have been in the 90s for the last week. I am excited for Fall weather to set it so I can wear these and see if there are any changes I want to make before I start my next pair. I want to try a skinny leg variation but with the low waist of this view so I may try that next.

Did anyone else set sewing goals for the year? How are you coming along on them?

~Teri

p.s. Based on Gillian’s challenge in her recent Better Pictures Project post, I decided to try a new location for my photos. After we did the pre-school drop off, my husband, Caroline, and I went to the lake and took these photos. The weather didn’t cooperate at all for us– it was so overcast, humid, and gloomy. My curls died a slow death and it’s sort of hard to see details on this dark denim. I want to try again at this location on a less gloomy day, but I was too excited to post about my jeans to wait and re-take these  photos.