Hi everyone! I am finally getting around to posting these jeans that I made a few months ago as part of my Me Made May pledge. I made my first pair of Morgan jeans last November and they are were/are too small in the waist for me to wear comfortably. Every so often I can squeeze into them and get them stretched out enough to wear for a few days, but I really wanted to make a new pair that would fit better.
I always drag my feet about sewing jeans because I feel like the cutting process takes me a long time. I have to have a good stretch of time where kids are not home/asleep to put the denim on the floor and lay everything out. I like to cut on the single layer to maximize my fabric and try to eliminate possible leg seam twist. Once I get going on the actual sewing I love the process so much. I really enjoy doing the topstitching and seeing the jeans take shape. I love the button fly on the Morgan jeans. It sews up so quickly and has totally made me a button fly jeans convert.
My first pair was made with stretch denim, so I went down a size from my measurements. This time around I made them from non-stretch denim, which is how the pattern is designed. I made the size 14 graded to a 16, which is where my measurements fall. I made the same modifications as I did with my stretch pair; I lowered the front rise by 3/4 inch and I did the knock knee adjustment that is shown in this post from Closet Case Patterns. My first pair I did a 3/8″ knock knee adjustment and on this one I increased it to half an inch.
I struggled a little bit getting the crotch curve right on this pair. I straightened it a bit and I ended up having to do a thin thigh adjustment on the front leg pieces (this one still cracks me up– that is not an adjustment I ever thought I’d be doing!) This helped with some of the excess fabric that I always get at the crotch. The crotch fit isn’t perfect on these but I think with a looser boyfriend jean it doesn’t matter as much. Or at least that’s what I’m telling myself.
I am really happy with how the knock knee adjustment worked on these jeans. I’ve still got knee wrinkles but it’s such an improvement over my ready to wear jeans, and even my Ginger jeans that I made a few years ago before I knew about knock knee adjustments. I think the back view looks pretty good, too. I’ve got some under butt drag lines but I’m not sweating those since this fabric relaxes with wear and they aren’t as noticeable.
Oh, the fabric! This denim is the 10 oz non-stretch Cone Mills denim from Threadbare Fabrics. It’s the same denim I used for my Hampton Jean Jacket— so I could wear a full matching denim suit if I was so inclined. (Nope, not happening!) The denim is a really nice indigo color and it’s such nice quality. I loved sewing it and I love wearing it. I have been wearing stretch denim jeans for so many years that I really wasn’t sure how I was going to feel about non-stretch jeans. These are great and I don’t notice the lack of stretch much. If I’m squatting down I feel the difference in the knees but that’s really the only time I miss the stretch.
A while ago I tossed my super junky old cast iron skillet and I didn’t think about how that left me with nothing to use when I hammer in rivets. So for the last three pairs of jeans I’ve sewn I’ve used all bartacks instead of rivets. I love how this looks and it’s quite easy to do. I used pink accents on this pair of jeans. Pink serger thread on the inside, pink chambray pocket bags, pink bartacks, and a pink buttonhole on the waistband. I like to finish the side seams separately so that the seam allowances can be pressed open and I get two pops of pink serger thread on the outer cuffs of the jeans. Maybe no one else will ever notice these things but I love the details and they make me so happy when I wear these jeans!
I wore these jeans a bunch before the weather got too hot for jeans and I’m so glad to have some boyfriend jeans that fit me well! I have since made a pair of Morgan jean shorts and once I get photos I’ll do a post about them, too. I’m finding it really hard to keep up with my blog in the summer with the kids out of school. I’ve got a bunch of things sewn and I’m hoping it won’t be too long before I get photos and blog posts done. Thanks for reading!