Sewing

Morgan Jeans version 2

Hi everyone! I am finally getting around to posting these jeans that I made a few months ago as part of my Me Made May pledge. I made my first pair of Morgan jeans last November and they are were/are too small in the waist for me to wear comfortably.  Every so often I can squeeze into them and get them stretched out enough to wear for a few days, but I really wanted to make a new pair that would fit better.

Morgan Jeans 1

Morgan Jeans 2

I always drag my feet about sewing jeans because I feel like the cutting process takes me a long time. I have to have a good stretch of time where kids are not home/asleep to put the denim on the floor and lay everything out. I like to cut on the single layer to maximize my fabric and try to eliminate possible leg seam twist. Once I get going on the actual sewing I love the process so much. I really enjoy doing the topstitching and seeing the jeans take shape. I love the button fly on the Morgan jeans. It sews up so quickly and has totally made me a button fly jeans convert.

Morgan Jeans 3

Morgan Jeans 4

My first pair was made with stretch denim, so I went down a size from my measurements. This time around I made them from non-stretch denim, which is how the pattern is designed. I made the size 14 graded to a 16, which is where my measurements fall. I made the same modifications as I did with my stretch pair; I lowered the front rise by 3/4 inch and I did the knock knee adjustment that is shown in this post from Closet Case Patterns. My first pair I did a 3/8″ knock knee adjustment and on this one I increased it to half an inch.

Morgan Jeans 5

Morgan Jeans 6

I struggled a little bit getting the crotch curve right on this pair. I straightened it a bit and I ended up having to do a thin thigh adjustment on the front leg pieces (this one still cracks me up– that is not an adjustment I ever thought I’d be doing!) This helped with some of the excess fabric that I always get at the crotch. The crotch fit isn’t perfect on these but I think with a looser boyfriend jean it doesn’t matter as much. Or at least that’s what I’m telling myself.

Morgan Jeans 7

I am really happy with how the knock knee adjustment worked on these jeans. I’ve still got knee wrinkles but it’s such an improvement over my ready to wear jeans, and even my Ginger jeans that I made a few years ago before I knew about knock knee adjustments. I think the back view looks pretty good, too. I’ve got some under butt drag lines but I’m not sweating those since this fabric relaxes with wear and they aren’t as noticeable.

Morgan Jeans 8

Oh, the fabric! This denim is the 10 oz non-stretch Cone Mills denim from Threadbare Fabrics. It’s the same denim I used for my Hampton Jean Jacket— so I could wear a full matching denim suit if I was so inclined. (Nope, not happening!) The denim is a really nice indigo color and it’s such nice quality. I loved sewing it and I love wearing it. I have been wearing stretch denim jeans for so many years that I really wasn’t sure how I was going to feel about non-stretch jeans. These are great and I don’t notice the lack of stretch much. If I’m squatting down I feel the difference in the knees but that’s really the only time I miss the stretch.

Morgan Jeans 10

A while ago I tossed my super junky old cast iron skillet and I didn’t think about how that left me with nothing to use when I hammer in rivets. So for the last three pairs of jeans I’ve sewn I’ve used all bartacks instead of rivets. I love how this looks and it’s quite easy to do. I used pink accents on this pair of jeans. Pink serger thread on the inside, pink chambray pocket bags, pink bartacks, and a pink buttonhole on the waistband. I like to finish the side seams separately so that the seam allowances can be pressed open and I get two pops of pink serger thread on the outer cuffs of the jeans. Maybe no one else will ever notice these things but I love the details and they make me so happy when I wear these jeans!

Morgan Jeans 11

Morgan Jeans 12

I wore these jeans a bunch before the weather got too hot for jeans and I’m so glad to have some boyfriend jeans that fit me well! I have since made a pair of Morgan jean shorts and once I get photos I’ll do a post about them, too. I’m finding it really hard to keep up with my blog in the summer with the kids out of school. I’ve got a bunch of things sewn and I’m hoping it won’t be too long before I get photos and blog posts done. Thanks for reading!

~Teri

 

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10 thoughts on “Morgan Jeans version 2

    1. Thank you so much, Anna! I just looked at your blog for the first time and I am so impressed that you are sewing so much at such a young age. I definitely recommend trying jeans at some point. They are not as difficult as they seem… I actually think they are really fun. You’ll have a huge sense of accomplishment when you finish them!

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  1. Wow, these look amazing! It really shows that made you personal fit adjustments. They fit you beautifully. I love how they look relaxed and comfortable, but obviously FIT. That’s a huge accomplishment in non-stretch jeans! I haven’t ventured yet into jeans making…but these are inspiring :-).

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    1. Thanks, Susanna! I am really happy with the fit I got on these jeans! I agree, it’s a lot easier to hide a not quite right fit with stretch denim. It took me quite a while to get started on my first pair of jeans… and then I think I waited 2 years before I started my next pair. It’s been fun focusing more on pants fitting this year and I’ve got plans for more jeans in the Fall!

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  2. Oh, they look so good! I love the shade of the denim; the topstitching pops against it. And the knock-knee adjustment; I think I have to try that on my next pair of jeans. The back looks perfect! You have to have some wrinkles so you can sit, but it’s almost totally smooth!

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    1. Thanks, Masha!! This knock knee adjustment worked the best of any I’ve done so far. I am so happy with the reduction in weird knee drag lines. I will be excited to see how it works for you when you try it.

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  3. These are killer!! The perfect slouchy comfy boyfriend jeans. Is the button fly easier than a zip fly? FASCINATING. I’m listening! Also, was the skillet used as a stable base for under the rivets when you were hammering? Tell me you didn’t hammer rivets WITH the skillet?! Please elaborate!

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    1. Inder, I always love your comments and this one made me laugh. I should have been a little more detailed about the cast iron skillet in my blog post for sure! Yes, you put the rivet face down on a metal surface, then pound in the backing piece with a hammer. For whatever reason when you’re installing the buttons you can put them face down on a piece of wood, but rivets need a metal surface. I am laughing thinking about using a cast iron skillet as a hammer! As far as the button fly, I think there are less steps than sewing a zip fly. It goes so quickly. And the buttonholes aren’t bad to sew since you’re only going through 2 layers of denim. I was surprised at how much I like the button fly!

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