Sewing

Plaid Gauze Archer

Archer

I finished my second Archer! Hooray! I stumbled upon a fabric destash on Instagram one day in the Summer and fell in love with this plaid gauze fabric. It was a 3 yard piece for something like $15 so I snapped it up right away with an Archer in mind.

Archer 1

I have been wearing my olive chambray Archer quite a bit now that it is Fall.  I am really excited to have another one in the rotation– especially since the colors in this plaid really feel very autumnal. I didn’t make any changes to sizing for this view (size 10 graded to 14 at the hips) other than slimming the sleeves and cuffs down to a size 8. My main quibble with my first Archer is that the cuffs are really loose.

Archer 3

This fabric was fairly difficult to work with because it’s very crinkly. I gave it a good press before I started cutting to make it as non-crinkled as possible. I think this was the best plan of attack to keep it from being too big as a finished garment. I cut my yoke, button band, pockets, and cuffs on the bias and these pieces seemed to keep growing after being cut. I had to go back and trim them back down to size before applying the interfacing (and a little bit after applying the interfacing!)

Back yoke detail

I found it was best to use my walking foot for all of the construction or the seams ended up really wavy. My walking foot isn’t really ideal for topstitching– it was hard to get the topstitching very close to the edges of the collar and cuffs. I think about 1/4″ from the edge was the best I could do. I decided to stick with the sleeve placket that came with the pattern instead of trying to do a tower placket on this fabric. I also didn’t bother with flat felling anything, instead I serged the seams and topstitched them down.

Archer front

I ran into a real struggle with the fabric when it came time to do the button holes. My machine’s button hole foot has a sensor wheel that somehow figures out when to change directions and complete the button hole. Well, this fabric was so flimsy off to the side of the button placket that the sensor foot couldn’t figure out when to stop. I had to unpick my first button hole about 3 times because it kept being suuuuuper long. I finally tried pinning some layers of scrap fabric to the underside of the shirt front to bring it up to the same thickness as the button placket.  Once I figured out this trick it was much easier to get the button holes finished.

Archer side detail

Strangely, the sleeves on this Archer have come out longer than my first one. I’m sure it is because of the nature of the fabric. I plan to wear them rolled up anyway so it’s not a huge deal. The cuffs are still too large– I can roll them up twice without having to unbutton the cuffs. I just cut a flannel Archer this weekend and I trimmed the cuffs and sleeves down one more size. I hope they will be better!

I am really happy with my new Archer and I have worn it quite a bit in the week since I finished it! What is everyone else sewing these days?

~Teri

p.s. I was inspired by Gillian’s most recent Better Pictures Project post and I played around with editing these photos. I tried some things that I haven’t tried before– mainly adjusting the contrast and sharpening the photos.  I am loving her series so far!

Advertisements

24 thoughts on “Plaid Gauze Archer

  1. I love this shirt! Gauze is great for shirts, but sooo obnoxious to sew. The first time I used the stuff it felt like I was sewing for the first time! So fiddly. Your shirt came out great though, and it will be even better after it goes through the wash and gets a nice crinkle. Love that!

    Like

    1. Thanks, Lisa! As I was sewing I was thinking that I should have maybe chosen a flowy pull over style for the gauze, but of course the plaid was begging to be made into an Archer. I’m glad I persevered because it really is so nice to wear.

      Like

  2. I love this shirt- those colors are perfect for fall! I worked with gauze recently, too, and my project (my tester Roscoe) ended up absolutely enormous- unwearable! That stuff is tough!! It just kept stretching widthwise as I sewed. But it looks like you conquered the gauze and ended up with an awesome shirt!

    I agree on the width of the Archer cuffs. I am making one right now and sort of arbitrarily chose to grade down the sleeve width and cuffs to a size 10, but I think I could have gone even more. I also had to cut 3 inches in length off the size 14- whoa!

    Like

    1. Meg, I remember reading about your gauze Roscoe and it made me nervous to try to make this fabric into an Archer. I think the key for me was stretching it out as much as I could when I was pressing the fabric before I cut the pieces out. The pieces cut on the grain were mostly ok, but the bias pieces were a different story. I can’t wait to see your newest Archer! I hope the cuffs turn out to fit you better!

      Like

  3. All that hard work paid off because your Archer is great! Such a great color on you and I love all those bias details. I’m pretty bummed that the sleeves on my Srcher turned out too long for me but that’s my fault for not making a muslin first. I’m going to have to take off 3″ the sleeve length!

    Like

    1. Thanks, Fiona! I love how the bias detail turned out, too! It’s funny how long the sleeves are and how wide the cuffs are on this pattern. I have pretty long arms so I’m not used to having to shorten sleeves! I guess the good thing is that this style of shirt looks great with the sleeves rolled up.

      Like

    1. Thank, Linda! The buttonholes are always a bit of a nail biter with my sewing machine. Sometimes it does great, other times I want to throw it out the window. I’m so glad I figured out a way to get these done!

      Liked by 1 person

  4. I love this plaid! Your shirt came out beautifully, as usual. 🙂 I don’t know why the Archer sleeves are so wide, but I’ve seen a lot of people comment on this, and everyone seems to slim them down. I’ve never sewn with gauze and your post is making me nervous to try it, but I’m glad you conquered this fabric!

    Like

    1. Thanks, Carolyn! It’s so exciting to have two Archers in my closet now! I’ve got my next one all cut out and ready to go. It’s a plaid flannel that will be so nice for Winter! I think you’d be able to handle sewing with gauze but I’d recommend trying to iron it out as flat as possible before cutting out pattern pieces. I have a few pieces of double gauze in my stash and I am hoping that will be easier to work with since it’s not as crinkly. I think I will try a less complex pattern for my first attempt at double gauze!

      Like

  5. Those colours are gorgeous, perfect for Autumn! Crinkly fabric stresses me out too, well done for getting it so neat and well fitting! I agree about the Archer sleeves/cuffs, I need to remember to alter my pattern before I make it again…

    Like

    1. Thanks, Kirsten! I couldn’t resist the colors in this fabric! I hope eventually I’ll get the sleeves to the right length/width. I should probably make a muslin of the smaller size sleeve and cuff, but it seems easier to just tinker with my next one and hope for the best!

      Like

  6. This is the perfect fall shirt! Those colours are fantastic! I’m sure that even though the fabric was a pain to work with, it feels lovely to wear. When I use a slippery fabric to make a shirt, I use spray starch on the fabric when I press it before cutting out. That really seems to help, and I just try to handle the pieces as little as possible. You could probably just grade the sleeves down to make them more fitted, or could you maybe move the button over for a tighter fit? Not the best solution but it might help on the ones you’ve already made!

    Like

    1. Thanks, Heather! I will have to remember that about the spray starch. I am sure that would have made things a little bit easier! That’s also a really good idea to move the button over a little bit. I should give that a try on this shirt and see if it helps. Even though the cuffs are interfaced I feel like they have gotten wider with wear!

      Like

  7. This shirt is fantastic! Perfectly wearable and the colors are gorgeous. But just reading about dealing with that crinkle gauze was enough to give me fits! Shudder! My experience is that Grainline patterns have really long sleeves. The Linden sleeve was also way long on me, and I cut inches off my Archer sleeves.

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s