As promised, I’m back with another new outfit! This was a spur of the moment, just for fun sew, which is really the most fun type of sewing in my opinion.
I’ve been wanting to make a new Closet Core Patterns Kalle shirt for quite a while. I have three in my wardrobe now, a dress, a cropped shirt, and the tunic length. I’ve had it on my mind for at least a year to make a regular shirt length Kalle and I’m so glad that I finally made the time to do it! (This pattern comes in sizes 0-30. It is available from a 31″- 58″ bust and 33″-61″ hip.)
My measurements for this pattern put me between the 10 and 12 at the bust. I’ve always sized down since this shirt has a lot of ease. I think that back when I made my first Kalle I was nervous about having it feel too big. That was the beginning of me dipping my toes into the more boxy top silhouette and I preferred to have a less ease. Now, a few years and many boxy tops later, I’m all about maximum boxiness. So for this shirt I dragged out my paper pattern and traced off the size 12 (which I graded out to a 14 a few inches above the hem.)
Tracing is one of my least favorite parts of prepping to sew. I am definitely a PDF pattern person because I can cut the pattern from the paper and reprint it if I ever want to make a different size. I’d say tracing is right up there with cutting interfacing in my top 3 things that I hate to do. (I’ll have to think about what my 3rd dreaded sewing task is.) But, like all of those things I put off, it really doesn’t take too long and I’m glad I did it. Having those extra couple inches of room has made this my perfect Summer shirt!
I used a lightweight cotton lawn that I ordered from Amazon. I found out about this fabric from Cathy, who is a fellow tester for Hey June. She made an Amherst shirt with the fabric and I thought it was so cute. She shared the link to this fabric and I ordered 2 yards right away. I was a teensy bit nervous about what the quality of the fabric would be like since it was only about $7 a yard, but it’s really great! I totally recommend scooping up a couple of yards for a boxy, lightweight top or whatever you fancy.
This length is not included in the Kalle shirt pattern, so I sort of had to guess about where to cut my hemline. When I was tracing the pattern I think I initially made the sides as long as the tunic length, but redrafted the curve so that it wasn’t so dramatic. I used my Willamette pattern as a guide for this since it’s a similar boxy button up shirt. I tried on my shirt during construction and decided it was longer than I wanted so I trimmed the hem a few times until I settled on a length that I liked.
My only other change was to gather the back piece to fit the yoke instead of using a box pleat. I’ve been doing this lately when I made button up shirts from lightweight fabric. I think the gathers are such a cute, feminine detail on the back of a button up shirt. I am really so, so happy with my new shirt! I know this one is going to get a lot of wear.
The shorts are slightly modified Closet Core Carolyn Pajama shorts. (This pattern is currently available in sizes 0-20.) My go-to elastic waist shorts pattern for the last couple of years has been the Parkside Shorts from Sew Caroline. I have always loved wearing my Carolyn pajama shorts around the house but they are a bit short for my comfort level to wear outside of the house. Well, this year my Parkside shorts have started to seem a little bit short, too. I decided to experiment with making Carolyn shorts as non-pajama shorts and I am very happy with the result.
I only had to slightly modify my existing pattern, which I believe is a size 14 graded to a 16 at the hips. I’d already lengthened the shorts pattern pieces by 1.25″. To make these I lengthened them another 1.25″ and I integrated the cuff into the leg pieces so I could do a standard hem. To integrate the cuffs I marked the seam line on both the cuff piece and the leg pieces. I overlapped the leg and cuff pieces so that the seam lines were directly on top of each other, then traced (this outfit required much more than the normal amount of tracing! But so worth it so that I can make multiples of the top and shorts!) the pieces.
Since the shorts are now just a waistband, pockets, and the front and back leg pieces they are really a quick sew. I’ve made two pairs so far and I’m going to try to make another couple this week. It feels good to have a little shorts refresh this Summer. I’m all about the elastic waist for maximum comfort in the heat! I added a drawstring and topstitched the waistband to give them as much of a non-pajama vibe as possible.
These are sewn in a tencel twill that I bought from Mood fabrics. The drape is great for this loose, straight leg style. They are really breezy and so nice to wear. I just dug a long horded tencel chambray out of my stash to get another pair cut and sewn soon. I’m pretty sure some version of these shorts will be my uniform this Summer!