Sewing

Amherst Shirt

Hi friends! Well, apparently the only time that I post anything on this blog is when I test a new pattern for Hey June. Today I’m here to show off my tester version of Adrianna’s newest pattern, the Amherst Shirt

Amherst is described as a camp-style shirt with cargo styling and classic details. Those classic details include a collar and collar stand, button placket, back yoke, set-in sleeves, and front pockets with or without a pocket flap.

I really love sewing shirts so I was very excited to test this pattern. As soon as I saw the line drawings I knew I had the perfect fabric for it in my stash, this very fun Liberty lawn called Queue for the Zoo. I initially bought this fabric (in a remnant sale from Duckadilly— if you’re interested in Liberty fabrics but full price scares you {as it does me} I’d recommend getting on Duckadilly’s email list. They have remnant sales every so often and the prices are discounted by 50%, I think. The remnants sell out quickly, though!) to make a dress for my daughter. But she is still mostly refusing to wear anything that isn’t pajamas so I decided that using the fabric for myself was a much better idea.

I rarely dive into anything without making a muslin, but definitely not if I’m using Liberty fabric, so I made a quick muslin of the bodice and sleeves. I measured into a size 10 at the high bust (36″), 12 at the waist (32″), and 14 at the hips (44″). This is what I cut, but I applied my standard 1/2″ forward shoulder adjustment and did a 1″ full biceps adjustment to the sleeve.

The full biceps adjustment puzzled me a little bit since the cuff on the sleeve is part of the actual sleeve pattern. The bottom of the sleeve has a funny looking zig zag edge that incorporates the folds that are needed to form the cuff. I wasn’t sure how to deal with that part of the sleeve. I asked Adrianna and she recommended doing the adjustment without that part of the sleeve, so cutting the pattern piece above all of the fold lines and doing the full biceps adjustment on just the sleeve part.

Then I folded up the original pattern piece on the lines and traced my adjusted pattern onto it.

I cut with the bottom part of the sleeve folded up and the zig-zagged edges formed themselves when I cut.

My muslin fit well so I dove in and cut the Liberty fabric. I only had 1.5 yards at 53″ wide. The pattern recommends 2 yards at 56″ wide so I knew it was going to be a squeeze. I played around and was really excited that I could make it work if I cut the inner yoke and collar stand facing from a contrasting fabric. I usually cut the inner yoke in a different, coordinating fabric just for fun and I like having the contrast inside the collar stand, too. Somehow, I did have enough fabric to pattern match the front placket! Woo!

Sewing this shirt was so fun! I did french seams on the whole thing so the interior is nice and clean. I love the easy fit (which I think has a little more ease in the hips on the final version– I believe this was one of the changes that came out of the testing process.) I am excited to make another one with that change since my hips can use all the ease they can get.

The cargo pockets on the front and the cute little button tab on the sleeve are my favorite details. I can definitely see myself wearing this shirt a lot this Spring and Summer. I’m thinking that a lightweight denim version would be a total workhorse in my wardrobe, so I think that will be the next Amherst I make.

So many of my button-front shirt needs are now covered by Hey June Patterns! The Cheyenne shirt/tunic is one of my favorite patterns (I just finished another one so I’ll be back to show it off once I get photos), the Willamette is a great, boxy, dolman sleeve button front shirt, and now the Amherst rounds out the group!

Thanks for reading!

~Teri

3 thoughts on “Amherst Shirt

  1. Those cuffs! Those pocket flaps! Dang, that is a cute shirt. I’m supposed to be on a pattern-buying sabbatical, but I want one…

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    1. Thank you! I know all about those fabric and pattern buying sabbaticals… so I’ll just say that when yours ends that this would be a great pattern for you to buy. 😊

      Like

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