Sewing

Taos Top and Lander Pants

Hi friends! I have been saying for like 2 years now that I want to sew some white jeans– and guess what?! I still haven’t made them! I did make some white Lander pants, though, and I love them so much.

Pretty much all Summer long I was sewing tops that I kept telling myself would be perfect with my white Lander pants. It took me until August to actually get the pants sewn but I’m saying better late than never in this case! These pants look great with so much of my wardrobe and I’m definitely throwing out the idea that white pants are a no-no after Labor Day. I want to keep wearing these as long as I can!

These pants are the 7th iteration of the Lander pattern that I have made. I really, really love this pattern! The wide legs are great for my pear shape and in general the pattern doesn’t require a lot of fitting tweaks for me. There aren’t too many pants patterns that I can say that about so I love to return to this one over and over.

I made my normal size, 12 graded to a 16, and I used the zip front expansion pattern. I lowered the front rise 1″ on these, which I do on most of my Lander pants and shorts. It’s most comfortable for me to have the front rise a bit shorter than they are designed.

I lengthened the cropped view 2″ since I am 5’7.5″ and the pattern is drafted for 5’5″. I played around with the hem length a bit and I might have trimmed off a bit of that extra length, I can’t quite remember.  I wanted these to hit just a bit above my ankle bone.

The top I am wearing is a modified Taos top from Threadbear Garments. I saw this top that Conni from Art in the Find was wearing and decided that I wanted to try to replicate it. It looks very much like a Taos top to me, but in a cropped, more boxy cut, and with a slightly shorter neckband.

I used view B of the Taos top as my starting point. I knew I wanted to cut the front and back as one piece, instead of using the side panels. I started out by removing the 3/8″ seam allowances from the center front and back pieces, and the front and back side panels.

I tried matching up the side panels with the center panels and found that they didn’t line up perfectly. I wasn’t surprised they weren’t a perfect match as I assume there is some shaping built into the princess seams.

The method I settled on was to line up the upper part of the pattern pieces at the bust notch on the princess seams first to get the correct curve at the under arm area. When I lined up the upper part of the two pattern pieces the bottoms didn’t match up. I started with the upper parts lined up and traced the armscye curve. Then I swung the side panels over so that they matched up at the bottom of the princess seams and the hemline was straight. Doing this pushed the upper part out of place, but since I’d traced the armscye curve I used that tracing to cut the upper part of the pattern with the correct curve.

The red line on the photo below shows where the panels lined up when I matched up the area above the notch. When I pivoted so that the bottom of the panels lined up the top moved over and down. The second photo shows my pattern piece after I combined the two panels into one.

 

Once I had merged the side panels with the front panels I straightened out the side seam to eliminate any waist shaping and get a boxy fit. Then I shortened the pieces by 2″ at the lengthen shorten line. I also took off 1/2″ of the length of the split hem in the back.

After I cut the front and back pieces I basted the top together to see how I felt about the length. It was still longer than I wanted so I unpicked the basting and shortened it some more. At this point I had to do some crazy, on the fly, adjusting. I took another 1/2″ off at the lengthen shorten lines (since the pieces were already cut I actually had to cut some off of the top to shorten it during construction) and took extra 1/2″ from the front hem and 1″ off of the back hem.

So, to summarize all of that, next time I will shorten the front by 3″ and the back by 3.5″.

I wanted the neckband to be slightly shorter than a mock turtleneck but higher than a regular crew neck to mimic my inspiration top. I lowered the neckline by 1/4″ all around the circle after trying it on during construction. Then I cut my neckband at 3/4 the height that the mock neck was drafted in the pattern.

The changes to the neckline are so perfect! It’s so comfortable and I love how the solid black band looks with my striped jersey. The fabric, by the way, is one that I got earlier in the year from D&H Fabrics. It’s sold out at this point, sadly, because it’s really nice and worked perfectly for this boxy top.

I’ve worn this top quite a bit since I made it. I love how some simple modifications to the Taos pattern resulted in a top that is a really good replica of that ready to wear tank.  I’ve definitely got plans to make a few more of these! It didn’t take much fabric at all and it will be a great layering piece for Fall.

Thanks for reading!

~Teri

 

2 thoughts on “Taos Top and Lander Pants

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