Hi friends! I’ve got another #sewbibs project for you today. Simplicity 8641 is a pattern I’ve been wanting to make for quite a while. This pattern is designed by Sewhouse 7 and it’s the pinafore version of the Burnside Bibs. I’ve had the pattern and the fabric for close to a year, I’d guess. I think the reason I’d been holding off on starting was that I really had no idea what size to cut. It’s been a pretty long time since I’ve used a Big 4 pattern!
Big 4 patterns have a reputation for having a lot of ease. I knew this pattern would be fairly forgiving since it’s got a loose waistband that is gathered with the long ties— but I also didn’t want to cut the completely wrong size. (Spoiler alert– that is pretty much what happened!)
Similarly to the Burnside Bibs pattern, the Simplicity pinafore has a view that is more fitted at the waist/hips and has a side invisible zip for entry and another view that is looser and has more ease at the waist/hips. DO NOT ASK ME WHY, but I chose the second view.
I’ve made the Burnside Bibs before and made the view with less ease and the side zip. The back waist was still pretty gathered for me on that view when I first made them.
Since I have a pear shape, I should have known to use the view with less ease in the waist. I wanted the more a-line skirt but it wouldn’t have been a big deal to merge the two skirt views together… but for whatever reason I didn’t do that!
When I was deciding on size for the pinafore I took out my Burnside Bibs pattern and found that the size 12 bib from the Burnside Bibs seemed to correspond to the size 18 bib on the Simplicity pinafore.
I cut the bib at the size 18, graded to a 20 at the waist, and then graded the skirt out to between the 20 and 22 from the hips down.
It wasn’t until I was completely finished sewing the dress that I tried it on and realized that the back looked terrible. There was soooo much fabric gathered at the waist! The whole upper back/hip area of the skirt was not laying right since there was so much extra fabric.
Of course I was feeling pretty defeated since I’m totally in love with the fabric that I used. It’s the moss green tencel twill from Blackbird Fabrics. I love tencel with my whole heart. And this green is such a pretty color.
Even with the amazing drape of this tencel the back of the dress was a wreck. I had to unpick a bunch of the topstitching on the back facing and take off some of the beltloops (thank goodness I’d only stitched them on with a straight stitch and not used bartacks!)
I tried adding some darts to the waistband area but I didn’t like how it was looking. In the end I added a center back seam and used some shaping to take out a wedge from the waist area.
I sewed the back skirt pieces back together with a deep seam allowance so in the end I took out 2.5″ from the center back waist.
The fit of the dress is much better than it was but I’m still kicking myself for not making the view with the side zip. I also think that I should have cut a size 18 through the waist instead of grading to the 20. The back waist droops a little bit in the center but if I pull the ties too tightly the front waistband starts folding over on itself.
So, all in all, the fit of the dress could be better but I really love the style of it. The Burnside Bibs pattern is one of my favorites to sew and wear (in fact, I’ve got a new pair of bibs coming to the blog later in the week!) There is a ton of topstitching, which is really fun for me. I love doing the topstitching and I love how it looks on the dress.
I’m definitely excited to wear this with a tank or a short sleeved t- shirt and sandals this Summer. I’m glad I finally made this dress and got the fabric out of my stash!
Don’t forget that there are still quite a few sponsor discounts that go on until April 12, when #sewbibs ends! We’re also doing giveaways each Tuesday and Thursday on Instagram. It’s been so fun to see the creations that are rolling in each day.