Bryce Cargo Pants and Union St Tee

 

Hello! I’ve got a really fun outfit to show you today! I had to opportunity to test the newest pattern from Hey June, the Bryce Cargo pants. This pattern is a slim fit cargo pant with a mid-rise designed for stretch woven fabric.

When I first heard “cargo pant” I wasn’t totally sure if these were going to be a good idea for me. My legs generally don’t need any additional bulk added to them but these cargo pockets are streamlined and end up looking great on the slim leg of the pants. Adrianna showed us some photos that she was using as inspiration and I was immediately sold.

I REALLY wanted to make an olive green pair of Bryce cargoes, but I am trying to use stash fabrics whenever possible. I am severely limited when it comes to stretch woven bottom-weight fabrics that aren’t denim– I had only two options but it turned out one of them was perfect. (Full disclosure, I had to buy a stretch sateen from Joann to use as a muslin for these and I’m really glad I made a muslin before cutting into my final fabric.) I initially bought this black stretch twill from Mood to use for Sasha trousers, but when I got it I was disappointed that the color is like a black that has been washed over and over again for a couple of years. Not what I wanted for my trousers, but perfect for casual cargo pants.

I cut a size 14 graded to an 18 at the hips. My muslin confirmed that I needed more room though the upper back thigh so I adjusted for that before I cut my pattern. I also did some of my usual pant modifications: lowered the front rise by 1/2″, 5/8″ knock knee adjustment, and I added a 1/2″ wedge to the butt for some extra room. I found from my muslin that the knee darts needed to be moved up about 1/2″ to hit me where they are designed to hit, which is the mid-to-upper knee.

One trick I’ve learned from making jeans is that all fabrics are different and it’s a good idea to baste fit your pattern each time you make it. I basted my pants together once I’d made my changes and cut into my final fabric. The black twill wasn’t quite as stretchy as the sateen I’d used for my muslin so I ended up sewing the side seams with a smaller seam allowance to give myself some more room. This pattern has 1/2″ seam allowances so there isn’t quite as much room to play around with smaller seam allowances as on a pattern with 5/8″ SAs.

I don’t have any great photos of the back of the pants because I ended up needing to scoop out the back crotch a little bit after I saw the photos my husband took. I thought everything was OK back there but the photos showed a different story! The fit is better now that I scooped out the seat (although I don’t have any photographic evidence of that– hopefully it really is better!)

Guys, I have to confess that this is the second pair of pants I’ve made in a row where I’ve overfit the waistband. I did the same on my denim Lander pants. These seemed loose in the waist so I deepened the back darts and took in the side seam a little bit. They fit great until I washed them and everything tightened up. I seem to forget that fabric stretches as you’re sewing and fitting! I should have left myself a little bit more room since the waist is uncomfortably tight at this point. Don’t be like me– leave yourself some breathing room! Now I’m really desperate to find some olive stretch twill and make myself another pair!

I’ve already said a whole lot in this post, but I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you about this tee that I am obsessed with. It’s the updated Union St tee from Hey June made from a dreamy tencel jersey from La Mercerie. I have been a devotee of the Grainline Lark tee since it was released and I never gave the Union St tee a fair chance. When the pattern was updated a little while back I tried it again and I love it so much! The fit it great and it’s got this subtle curved hem that I completely adore. If you’re in the market for a basic t-shirt pattern I highly recommend the Union St tee.

Are you guys pants makers? What do you think about the new Bryce Cargo pants pattern? If you’re new to making pants this is a great place to start. The pattern is involved to make but the instructions are top notch! A few of the other testers had never made pants before and they did a great job with this pattern. I say go for it!

~Teri