When the Burnside Bibs pattern from Sew House Seven was released a couple of weeks ago I was instantly smitten. I could not get that green linen/cotton sample from the pattern listing out of my head. The color is amazing and I just love the wide legged silhouette with those great curved patch pockets. I had a few moments of doubt about whether I could pull off the look so I posted a photo of them on my Facebook page and asked my friends for their opinions.
It turned out that one of my friends, who I have done some commissioned sewing for in the past, really loved the look, too. She said she was interested in me making a pair for her. We talked about fabric options and both ended up deciding on this gray yarn dyed Brussels Washer linen. My friend decided on version 2, the view with the straight cut bib, no back pockets, and no-side zipper. I sewed her bibs first and couldn’t resist trying them on, even though they were a size 8, which would be too small for me.
I was glad that I tried them on, because it was a good gauge of what size I should make for myself. The fit wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t loose enough in the hips/thighs for me. Based on the fit of version 2 I knew I should make myself the version 1, which has less fullness through the back waist and closes with an invisible size zip. I figured making this view would be a lot easier than trying to grade between sizes to get less fabric at the waist.
I made myself a straight size 12. My measurements put my waist between an 8 and a 10 and my hips put me in a 12. If I had tried to grade between sizes from the waist to hips I might not have as much fabric cinched up at my back waist, but I’m good with it since it was much easier to just cut a straight size for once!
This pattern sews up pretty quickly, especially if you make the ties using the option that doesn’t involve turning super long, skinny tubes inside out. I used the tube turning option on the pair I made for my friend and knew I never wanted to do that again! For mine I used the option where you press the raw edges of the ties to the middle of the straps and topstitch everything closed. It went so much faster and my fingertips were much happier!
I really like the curved bib on this version and I am so in love with the wide legs and big pockets. These overalls are so fun and super comfortable in this linen/rayon blend. This fabric is prone to stretching while sewing and wearing which proved to be a problem when I was working on the back pockets. At first I sewed them on according to the pattern markings but when I tried them on they were very low and the tops were flopping open, which wasn’t a good look on my backside.
My sewing friend Amber helped me and suggested that I make the pockets smaller and move them in a little more toward the center back. I took her advice and also ended up positioning them so that the inner corners were about half an inch higher than the outer corners. When the back is all cinched up they sit level and they don’t flop open anymore. If you are making these and want to add back pockets I would say it’s worth it to wait until you are finished with everything else and can play around with the position a little bit. Unpicking 2 rows of topstitching and bartacks was very frustrating for me! It was worth it, though, since the pockets are much better for me now.
I found the legs to run long and I shortened these an inch to get the length just above my ankles. I have had a few people ask me what it’s like to get in and out of these. It’s a little bit tricky to get the ties done back up and not twisted, but it’s probably a lot better than trying to get in and out of a romper or jumpsuit. These might be the things I wear on a day when I’m not planning to drink a ton of water. I really love how the pants fit on this pattern and I’m curious to try to make them as pants without the bib. I think it would be fairly easy to make them with a flat front and elastic back. And I think I would pretty much live in them at that point!
What do you think of the dungarees/bibs/overalls trend that is back in style?