Sewing

Embroidered Ryan Top

Ryan Top 4

Hi! I’m back with some more #simplesummersewing. I have had my eye on the Whitney Deal Ryan top since it first got added to the Indiesew shop. I love the silhouette and I had visions of making a white version with embroidered accents, similar to this top.

Ryan Top 2

As you can see my finished top is light on the embroidery, but I’m really chuffed (can I use this word as an American? I love when the British people say it so I thought I’d give it a shot.) with how it turned out. I was hesitant to do a huge amount of embroidery until I knew if I liked the fit of the shirt and *GASP* I didn’t make a muslin of this one. I can’t remember the last time I just decided to wing it on a woven shirt.

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I made a size Medium graded to a Large. A minor complaint I have with Whitney Deal patterns is they go by bust size and don’t give finished measurements for other areas, like hips. As a person with substantial hips I really rely on that info when deciding on what size to make. I measured the flat pattern at bottom of the shirt and felt like there would be enough ease in the size L. I felt nervous the whole time I was making it that maybe I should have graded to an XL but it fits just fine in the end.

Ryan Top 1

My fabric is a very lightweight cotton lawn that I got from Mood last year. It has stripes woven into the fabric and turned out to be more sheer than I remembered, so I underlined the whole top. I was able to line up the stripes on both layers so they really stand out on the finished top.

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I searched around on the google for sashiko embroidery patterns and found this design on pinterest. I traced the design on to some tearaway stabilizer that was really supposed to be used for machine embroidery. I did a simple running stitch through one layer of the front yoke and the stabilizer. It was great to stitch through the stabilizer but it wasn’t really easy to get it off without stretching out some of the stitches. I probably would not do it this way again, especially not on such a lightweight fabric.

Ryan Top Embroidery Detail

Since I underlined the whole shirt I was able to sandwich the inside of the embroidery between the two layers of yoke fabric, so I don’t have thread rubbing up against my skin. I made one construction change, which was to finish the neckline with bias tape instead of using the facing. I didn’t want to have to stitch through the embroidery to stitch down the facing. I skipped a stitch or two at the top of the embroidery when I sewed down the bias tape since the embroidery is almost as tall as the yoke.

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Construction-wise this shirt goes together really quickly and easily. I did find it a little fiddly that the seam allowance to sew the yoke to the shirt bottom is 1/4″. I think it’s hard to get gathers to lay nicely if your gathering stitches are under the actual seam allowance. I like to sew my final seam between at least 2 lines of gathering stitches. I decided not to sew a line of basting stitches at 1/8″, though. I would prefer a 1/2″ seam allowance for that seam.

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I decided to shorten the shirt by 2″ once I tried it on and I used a little bit deeper hem than the pattern calls for. It was more of a tunic length and I like this length better for wearing with shorts or jeans. I am very happy with how this top came out and I’m already thinking about making another one. The top doesn’t take a lot of fabric, so I was thinking it could be a great candidate for my first foray into sewing with silk.

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Do any of you have experience with sashiko embroidery? I would love to get some real supplies and try to learn the actual technique eventually, but for now I will enjoy wearing my rendition on my fun new shirt.

~Teri

p.s. The Ryan top pattern was provided to me since I am part of the Indiesew blogger team. All opinions are my own.

 

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14 thoughts on “Embroidered Ryan Top

  1. The embroidery turned out really great! I’d like to try embroidery on a top someday… except I don’t have much patience for hand stitching! I think I used this exact fabric to make an Archer a couple summers ago—love the woven stripe in it!

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    1. Thanks, Lisa! I don’t mind embroidery but I find other kinds of hand stitching to be tedious. I actually bought this fabric to make an Archer but I thought it might be too sheer. I should see if I have enough left to still do it!

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      1. I really love my Archer with this fabric! It is sheer, so if I’m feeling particularly risqué I can get away with nude underthings, otherwise I usually wear a cami under.

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    1. Thanks, Jenny! I just need to work up the nerve to buy some silk– and then force myself to use it right away. Sometimes I get too scared to ever cut into those special fabrics!

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    1. Thanks, Masha! The pattern I found for the embroidery was a dashed line so I traced it that way and stitched right over the lines. It was a sure fire way to keep my stitches nice and even!

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  2. I love the expression chuffed too!! I’m always worried that I will sound weird saying it though too, because I’m not British. 🙂
    Your top looks awesome and I love that little embroidery on it. It’s something I’ve always wanted to try. I think I would be really cool to embroider the yoke on an archer or something like that. And I love that you were able to sandwich the stitches so that they don’t rub on your skin too!

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    1. Thanks, Heather! I think embroidery on an Archer yoke would be really cool. I love doing hand embroidery but I don’t often make the time to sit and do it. Kate and Rose patterns has some beautiful hand embroidery patterns– some day I’d like to do a shirt with one of those embroideries.

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  3. Perfect application of the word chuffed there! Very appropriate, given how gorgeous your top is. Looking forward to seeing what you do next! P.S. if only we could sort out our differences regarding the word “p*ssed” now…

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