Hello there! Long time no see around these parts! I’ve been sewing like crazy, which has taken up all of my time to write blog posts. One part of my Me Made May pledge this year (which I am documenting on Instagram and may do one big wrap up at the end of the month) was to sew one of the patterns that has been hanging around in my pattern library unused.
My plan was to sew the By Hand London Anna dress but then we had a cold snap last week and I decided that I wanted a sweatshirt instead. I decided to go with the Papercut Patterns Bowline Sweater pattern that I bought during their Easter sale. The french terry is from the Indiesew fabric shop and it had been sitting on my sewing table for months.
I was really intrigued by how the sweeping pleat is constructed and after reading the instructions I still felt like I was pretty clueless. The front pattern piece is so crazy looking. I have no idea how pattern designers do what they do! I cut a size small graded to between a medium and large. This is my first Papercut pattern and I was really surprised that my measurements put me in those sizes. I don’t think I’ve ever been a size small in anything before. I lengthened the pattern but in the end decided it was too long so I ended up cutting off the waistband and shortening it. This might be about 1/2″ longer than the original pattern.
Everything went well until it got time to do the neckline and pleat. I totally bungled the way that the neckband is attached, but I didn’t realize it until it was far too late in the game and I’d already sewn the shoulder pleat. I ended up with the raw edges of one end of the neckband visible, which is not how it’s supposed to be. When I went back to the illustrations I realized my mistake but it’s not very obvious from the wording in the directions. I haven’t read about anyone else having this problem so it could be that I’m just a big dope, but I recommend paying very close attention to the illustrations when you attach the neck band.
The pleat is created by making a burrito out of the whole sweatshirt and sewing up a magic seam. I think I might have messed up sewing that magic seam because the pleat on my shirt wants to droop down and the dart that is under the pleat becomes visible. I haven’t noticed anyone else with this problem. I am not sure if it has anything to do with me messing up the neckline and having to go back into the burrito to fix it after the fact or if I just did something wrong.
I decided to try to tack down the pleat with some hand sewing stitches, which looks OK from far away but I realized from this picture that they are noticeable up close. I am probably going to take them out and maybe just let the pleat be floppy. Or maybe I could get a big kilt pin and attach it to the front of my droopy pleat. Ha!
So this wasn’t a total success and I am disappointed about it. This fabric is so soft and I really wanted to love what I made from it. I would like to give this pattern another try at some point to see if I can improve on it, but I will probably wait until the fall and get back to that Anna dress for now. If any of you have made this pattern do you have dropping pleat issues?