I am really drawn to fun colors and prints when I buy fabric. But before I started sewing so many of my own clothes one of the things I always bought was white shirts. When I was trying to figure out what fabric to use for my first Sew Caroline Sugar Pop Top, I decided that it was high time I made myself a white shirt.
This fabric was in my stash from ages ago. I’m sure it came from Joann Fabrics and I think it had intended to use it for a valance in our kitchen. It’s actually not plain white– there are tiny white pin dots all over it.
I bought this pattern right away when Caroline released it. It got put in the pile of things to make and I only just got to it. I had a bit of trouble figuring out what size to make. As usual my measurements put me all over the place. I made a quick muslin and the top ended up being too roomy so I sized it down. I think I probably ended up with a medium on top graded to a large on the bottom. I also had trouble with the darts. They didn’t seem to be hitting me where I thought they should. The seemed a little low and the shape of the dart was different than what I’m used to. When I sewed the dart legs the side seam wasn’t a nice straight line. The fabric on the top of the dart was wider than the fabric on the bottom of the dart. I ended up leaving the darts as they are on the pattern since my attempts to redesign them weren’t working well. My side seam starts with a little zig zag, but it’s under my arm and (other than you lovely readers) I won’t point it out to anyone.
I did my first rounded shoulder adjustment on this top. I checked out a book from my library about fitting patterns because I often have pooling fabric in my lower back area. I wasn’t convinced that a swayback adjustment was the right thing for me. The book says that the shoulder seam should line up with the top of your shoulder (seems obvious, right?!) but a lot of my hand made clothes have this seam hitting behind the top of my shoulder. It’s not news to me that I have horrible posture and hunched shoulders. The fix for this is to lengthen the back pattern piece shoulder seams (I did a 1/2 adjustment so I made the shoulders 1/2 longer) and remove the same amount from the front pattern piece. This moves the shoulder seam forward. (Here is a tutorial with pictures. She is only moving the outer part of the shoulder seam and I moved the entire shoulder seam.) It worked like a charm for me.
After wearing this shirt a few times I realize I should have also adjusted the curve of the front armscye to account for my rounded shoulders. I am getting some fabric folding up right in front of my shoulders. If I cut some of that out with a bigger armscye in the front I think it would go away. The question is do I fix this shirt or just make the change on the next one? Maybe it’s something I will do in the winter when the shirt isn’t getting worn as much.
So this is a very long post all to say that I really like this shirt. Once I got my fit issues resolved it was a very quick sew. I love a good Peter Pan collar and the cap sleeves are a fun detail. (There is also an option for a flutter sleeve.) I like the subtle hi-low hem and the loose, comfy shape. It’s another great, casual summer shirt!